Rough Green Snake
Opheodrys aestivus
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Description - Rough green snakes range from New Jersey to Florida in the East, and Kansas to Texas
in the West. They are quite abundant in the wild. They are arboreal, but they spend most of their
time near ground level, in bushes, meadows and grassy marshes and fields they are also good
swimmers. Green Snakes are beautiful and graceful, and can make great pets. Rough Green Snakes
can be difficult to keep in captivity, however. This is mostly due to a lack of understanding of their
diet. Green Snakes are a shy creature Green Snakes are slender and agile, and wiggle a lot. While
their small and gentle bodies make them very pleasing to hold, Green Snakes generally do not like to
be handled. They rarely display a bad temper and rarely, if ever, attempt to bite. The rough green
snake is slender with keeled scales in 17 rows and a very long tail that tapers sharply to a pointed tip
the anal plate is divided. Void of patterning, this snake's coloring is iridescent leaf green on top with
whitish to yellow to yellowish green underneath, and a bright red tongue. Hatchlings are a
greenish-gray color.
Requirements - These snakes are best housed in large tall cages, as they are naturally arboreal; as a
guide, a, 35 in x 17 in x 23 in sized cage would house a 17 in snake. The rough green snake is an
excellent climber and likes an arboreal type setting, so a vertical or semi-vertical tree limb with plant
vines is great. Green Snakes should be kept in a habitat with a temperature range from 75 to 80
degrees Fahrenheit. Be sure you use a thermometer so the terrarium does not become overheated.
These snakes require moderate humidity but cannot stand stagnant air conditions, ventilation is very
important. A light daily misting with a hand sprayer will provide the humidity that is required.
Make sure to provide a hide box or shelter for the snake to hide under, a water bowl large enough
for the snake to fully submerge itself in, and a suitable substrate (paper towels, newspaper, and
reptile carpeting) as the snake may swallow its substrate. The enclosure should be easy to clean and
free of sharp objects. Keep light on in the enclosure for 12 hours then turn off the light source for 12
hours, continuous light will cause stress on the snake. Never use a heat rock, your snake will burn
itself on it!
Diet - They should be feed live insects once or twice a week. Moths, crickets, grasshoppers, spiders
and earthworms are a typical Green Snake diet. Soft-bodied insect larvae such as waxworks, butter
worms, and mealworms are also good choices. They will also eat, but less easily obtained, flies and
spiders. Crickets are best, due to their availability, however, the crickets should be gut loaded with a
special mixture. Do not to leave uneaten insects in the cage. Green Snakes should never be given
food that is wider than their body.
Size and Life span – Rough Green Snakes only reach lengths of 2 1/2 to 3 feet. They have been
known live 15 years or greater in captivity, if properly cared for.
Handling - You should always support the snake’s body and avoid any fast movements. Try to
avoid restraining the snake. Avoid public situations that may be stressful on the snake. A nervous
snake may occasionally bite, snakes bite for two reasons: 1) they mistake you for a food source or 2)
they are in fear for their safety.